The Journey Inward

From Gold Reef City, we switched buses to take the Soweto tour. I was so excited to see this section of Johannesburg having just finished Born a Crime, Trevor Noah’s memoir. He spent much of his childhood in Soweto and I was looking forward to seeing the townships firsthand, though it has been decade since he last lived there, I believe.

Soweto actually stands for South Western Townships and they originated in the 1930s as a segregated place for Black people to live when they were forced out of Johannesburg under Apartheid. The black work force was needed in the city, but they were no longer permitted to live there. Workers had to carry passes to prove they were eligible to be in the city.

The first township was Orlando and many more came after. Families started with a basic two room house with no running water. Rooms might be added later with corrugated tin roofs. Students attended “bantu schools,” where they received a separate and inferior education by design. One of the most significant events in Soweto was the 1976 uprising. Schoolchildren took to the streets to protest the teaching of Afrikaans, considered to be the language of the oppressor. Around 20,000 students took part in the protests and faced fierce police brutality. Many students were shot and killed, but the most famous was Hector Pieterson, who was gunned down at 12 years old. His death became a symbol of the uprising and we stopped at the Hector Pieterson memorial and museum. It was very disturbing, moving, and chilling.

The townships are alive with music, dance, shops selling crafts and goods, and people all along the streets. We came to the Orlando Towers, a pair of decommissioned cooling towers from the old power station days. They are now an adventure center and cultural hub, with artwork depicting Soweto’s history and heritage. We watched several people bungee jump from between the towers.

While stopped to see Nelson Mandela’s house, a local news crew interviewed some of us about the G20. Nervous that I would take a beating once they heard my accent, I was relieved that when they picked me out to speak to me, we just spoke of the people and culture of South Africa and not politics. I had lots of thoughts there!!

Switching buses again, we went past Constitution Hill, the Mining District, the Apartheid Museum, the Holocaust and Genocide Museum, and the Military Museum. So much to come back and see!

Back at the Rosebank Mall 8 hours later, we grabbed a quick bite to eat and then Tim, Sheena and I took the train back to Hatfield. Sheena’s fiance picked us up and dropped me back at school where I’d left my car. Unbelievably, I hadn’t had anything to eat on this outing, so I drove directly to Cairo Kitchen for a lamb and shawarma wrap and went home to enjoy!

Good news awaited me from my friend, Sue, who is a grandmother for the second time. I got to catch up with Sara and Jan, too, which was so wonderful.

Sunday was grocery shopping, catching up with all the kids, and going to lunch at Monte de Dios just up the road from me with beautiful mountain and countryside views. Once again, all restaurants and bars are so family friendly and the extensive grounds held immeasurable joy for the kids. Coming from the U.S., it is truly astounding to see no signage insisting kids be supervised or play at your own risk. Two small concrete baby pools were full of kids, as were the racing slip in slides next to them that waiters would add dish detergent to every once in awhile! There were playgrounds and course for bicycles and hoverboards. The food was yummy and it was so relaxing there, complete with a live band.

I came home to a zoom call with my siblings. At first K was not going to be able to come because Israel had hit a target in Beirut, but he was able to join for the last 20 minutes. I gave them a tour of my yard as I was sitting outside enjoying the beautiful evening. That included my happy lemon tree! It’s just outside my family room window and brightens my days!

Finally, I couldn’t believe my eyes as I headed to checkout at Wooly’s yesterday. They were selling poinsettia plants, my mom’s favorite Christmas decoration! My mom decorated for every single holiday and Christmas was her best! Plus, her birthday is the day after, so it was extra special. I bought one for my house and it made me cry.